Made by Manu: 3-D Lacy Royal Icing Hut

The idea for this hut tutorial was sparked while working on "3-D Lantern Cookie Redux", my October tutorial, where I replaced the isomalt panes of my older "3-D Lantern Cookie" project with stenciled and airbrushed royal icing panes. I closed the latter tutorial by featuring another lantern with textured isomalt panes made by pouring the isomalt over various silicone mats. In this tutorial, I extend the idea of adding texture, but to royal icing, by stenciling the royal icing hut parts over some of the same silicone mats. This process embosses the mats' patterns into the royal icing. To keep this hut simple, I use the same templates that I used for my previous  "3-D Spooky Royal Icing Hut" project, which you can find attached to the end of this post.

Though not a lantern per se, this cute lace-textured hut can certainly serve as one! The backlight created by inserting mini LED lights inside the hut not only creates a festive wintry glow, but also accentuates the embossed lace texture. I go further in this tutorial by placing the hut on an iced cookie base and adding a 3-D stenciled royal icing tree to create a winter wonderland scene!

Speaking of textures and embossing, which have become quite popular in recent years especially with the use of embossed parchment paper and decorative rolling pins, please know that @Julia M. Usher pioneered these techniques years ago by using silicone molds and mats on cookies and then on royal icing. I would like to credit her for being a constant inspiration. Make sure to check out her "Dimensional Mixed Media Cookie" tutorial, a treasure trove of texturing and embossing techniques!

• My hut and tree design templates, for stencil cutting guides (see "Attachments" under "Files" at the end of this post)
• Parchment paper, for stencil material (or acetate or Mylar, if you prefer to make fewer stencils as explained in Step 1)
• Sugarcraft knife and scissors (if needed)
• Textured silicone mat(s), such as those used to make edible lace, for stenciling surfaces (I used SugarVeil®'s Circle Bouquets Mat and Flower Net Mat; you'll find @Julia M. Usher's discount code for SugarVeil® products at the end of this post)
• Baking sheets, for holding mats while icing dries
• Royal Icing:
  • White toothpaste-consistency on the thicker side, for stenciling hut and tree parts
  • White toothpaste-consistency in pastry bag or parchment cone, for "glue" for hut/tree assembly, beaded borders, and stippled texture on cookie base
• Small magnets (only needed if using parchment paper stencils)
• Props (I used 2 tall square cookie cutters to prop hut, and 2 [1.0-cm/3/8-in] wooden rolling pin guides to prop tree)
• 1 large (~15.0 x 9.5-cm/6 x 3 3/4-in) cookie with 1 (~4.0 x 1.5-cm/1 1/2 x 9/16-in) hole cut into it (before baking) to hold mini LED light(s), flooded with white royal icing (see Step 4b for a visual and more hole-cutting details)
• Small round paint brush
• 1 (30.0 x 2.5-cm/12 x 1-in) parchment paper strip
• 3 (or fewer) mini LED lights to fit inside hole in cookie

Step 1: Cut stencils

Cutting the stencils is easy. Trace each of my templates (again, see "Attachments" under "Files" at the end of this post) onto separate pieces of parchment paper. Then use a sugarcraft knife (and scissors, if needed) to cut along the traced markings to create the stencils.

You will need six (6) parchment paper stencils, two (2) for each of the three (3) parts of the 3-D hut*, of the dimensions indicated on the photo below. These stencils include:

1. Roof: 2 squares with a single scalloped edge (Note: Feel free to cut a straight edge if you find it difficult to cut the scallops, or if they don't stencil cleanly in the next step.)
2. Front/back walls: 2 pentagons
3. Side walls: 2 squares

*Notes: (1) As I've shown in my previous three tutorials, you can choose among parchment paper, acetate, or Mylar for making stencils. Parchment paper and acetate are easy to cut with a sugarcraft knife; for Mylar, you need a cutting machine, such as Cricut. Choose whichever material is most accessible to you. (2) However, if you use parchment paper, I recommend making two stencils for each part of the hut as noted above, so you can use a new stencil each time. (Parchment paper will get soft and misshape with multiple uses.) Of course, if you use Mylar or acetate, you need to cut only three stencils, one for each hut part.

To make the 3-D tree, you will need three (3) parchment paper stencils* of the dimensions indicated on the photo below. These stencils include:

1. Full-tree: 1 stencil
2. Half-trees: 2 stencils*

*Note: Again, you can get away with just one stencil for the half-trees if using Mylar or acetate.

In Step 2, I show the stenciling process using Mylar stencils for the hut, and parchment paper stencils for the tree - mostly just to demonstrate that parchment paper will work well if you're only using it one or two times. I also handle the parchment paper stencils a little differently, which is useful to see.

Step 2: Stencil hut and tree transfers

The stenciling process is almost exactly the same as in my past "3-D Spooky Royal Icing Hut" tutorial, so please refer to Steps 2a to 2f of that tutorial for further stenciling details. However, there is one key difference here: stenciling is done on large and flexible silicone mats. So, to prevent breakage of the stenciled icing (which can happen if the mats are handled directly or flexed while the icing is drying), always place the mats on baking sheets (before starting to stencil) for more stability and safer handling.

a. Starting with the hut roof, place that stencil on a silicone mat, positioning it to capture an attractive portion of the mat's pattern. (Note: I usedSugarVeil®'s Circle Bouquets Mat for the hut roof and side walls.)

b. Spread a small amount of white toothpaste-consistency (on the thicker side) over the stencil opening.

c. Using an offset spatula, start by pushing the icing into the mat crevices. Make sure that all of the crevices are entirely filled, so that the mat design reveals cleanly and fully after the icing has dried and the mat is removed.

d. Next, spread a thick (at least 2-mm/1/16-inch) layer of icing over the opening to ensure that the transfer will be sturdy enough to build into the hut. You may need to apply a couple of icing layers to achieve this thickness. You'll get the smoothest results if you swipe with the broad underside of the blade against the mat (rather than the blade edge) and if you wipe the blade completely clean between swipes.

e. Carefully remove the stencil, taking care not to disrupt the wet icing.

f. Repeat Steps 2a to 2e to stencil the other half of the roof and the side walls of the hut. Move the mats (still on their baking sheets) to the side to allow the icing to dry overnight (or longer)*. Again, don't handle the mats directly, or the transfers may break if the icing has started to dry and the mats bend.  

*Note: Drying time can vary quite a lot with ambient conditions and the depth of the crevices/pattern in your silicone mat. Transfers take longer to dry on silicone mats than on just about any other surface, not only because silicone mats are relatively thick and not very permeable, but also because of their crevices. I live in a fairly arid climate, so I let the transfers air-dry for a full 24 hours, however it won't hurt to dry them even longer - just in case. The longer you dry the transfers, the easier it will be to remove them from the mats without breakage.

g/h. For the front and back walls of the hut, I used a different silicone mat (SugarVeil®'s Flower Net Mat) to change up the pattern and to add interest to the hut, but you could, of course, use the same mat or any other mat for that matter. Once you've selected your mat, simply repeat Steps 2a to 2e to stencil these two hut pieces. And, again, allow these pieces to dry completely, just as described above in Step 2f.

i. Carefully slide the mats off their baking sheets onto your work surface. Take care not to bend the mats during this process, or you will quite likely break some transfers. Place a dry transfer near the edge of your work surface, and gently peel away the mat from underneath. Do not pull on the transfer, as it is fragile and may break. In the video at the end of this post, you'll see how I rotate the mat until the transfer is fully released.

j. Repeat Step 2i until all of the transfers are removed from their mats. If you're careful, you'll end up with some very pretty transfers, embossed with the mats' designs - and without any breakage!

k. Now on to stenciling the tree parts! Again, I used parchment paper stencils here. Since they tend to curl and move more easily than Mylar stencils, it's helpful to secure them to the stenciling substrate (in this case, SugarVeil®'s Flower Net Mat). In my "3-D Lantern Cookie Redux" tutorial, I secured them to acetate with tape. However, tape doesn't stick so well to silicone mats, so I used some small magnets (which look like clear tacks in the photo) to keep the stencils in place. (Having the baking sheet underneath the mat certainly kept the magnets secure too!). If you don't have small magnets, a Stencil Genie (or equivalent frame with small magnets in its corners) can be used for securing the stencils.

l. Once the tree stencils are secure, proceed to spread the same white toothpaste-consistency icing into the mat and over the stencil openings just as described in Steps 2a to 2e. Remove the stencils, and let the icing dry completely.

m. Once again, remove the three dry tree transfers from the mat as described in Step 2i.

Here's a visual summary of all of the royal icing transfers before their assembly into the hut and the tree.

Step 3. Assemble hut and tree transfers

a. The assembly of the hut is identical to that of my "3-D Spooky Royal Icing Hut", so please refer to Steps 4a to 4m (4h is optional) of that tutorial. You can also watch how I assembled the hut in the video at the end of this tutorial. I oriented the lacy texture toward the outside of the hut, but if you want to add an element of surprise, you can orient it toward the inside so that the texture is revealed only after the LED lights are turned on.

b. Now on to the tree assembly! Use white toothpaste-consistency royal icing to pipe a line (or two) lengthwise through the full-tree transfer.

c. Place some props lengthwise, parallel to the line(s) you just piped. As noted earlier, I used two (1-cm/3/8-inch) wooden rolling pin guides for props, but get creative if you don't have similar guides. Position one of the half-tree transfers at roughly a 60-degree angle to the full-tree transfer (or work surface), and insert its long, flat edge into the icing.

d. Position the other half-tree transfer on the other side of the full-tree transfer, at the same angle to it, again making sure that the half-tree's flat edge makes contact with the icing. Let the icing "glue" dry completely. In about one hour, you should be able to safely move on to the next step without risk of the various transfers shifting or falling.

e. Again using white toothpaste-consistency royal icing, pipe a beaded border along the central seam of the assembled tree transfer.

f. Remove the props, and pipe beaded borders along the seams at the sides. Also pipe a beaded border along the seam at the top of hut's roof.

Step 4: Attach transfers to cookie base

And now it's time to assemble the winter wonderland cookie scene! If you want to insert LED lights inside the hut, don't forget to make a hole on one side of the cookie before baking it! (I forgot, and then I proceeded to ice the cookie completely. As a result, I had to carve a hole for my lights, which explains why my hole edges are so sharp!)

a. Since the plain cookie surface seemed too smooth in contrast to the textures on the tree and hut, I decided to apply texture to the cookie using the stippling technique. Place a small amount of white tooth-paste consistency royal icing in a saucer. To stipple, dab a small round paint brush into the icing, and then use up-and-down motions of the brush to apply the icing to the cookie surface. While you stipple, the icing will start to dry, and you will be left with a felt-like texture on the cookie, which in this case resembles snow. Stipple the entire cookie surface.

b. Place the royal icing hut on the cookie to cover the hole and to leave enough room for the royal icing tree to the other side. I tested a few placements of the tree and hut on the cookie before settling on the best positions for both.

c. Once you are happy with your hut and tree placement, lift the tree, and pipe some white toothpaste-consistency royal icing on the cookie where the tree once was.

d. Attach the tree to the cookie by setting it in the icing.

To accentuate the lace designs and to add some seasonal glow, it's time for lights! Carefully take the hut off the cookie. Roll up the long parchment paper strip so that it fits inside the hole in your cookie. Note: I cut my hole to fit three mini LEDs of the type in my supply list, but the exact hole size is not crucial. Just make sure the hole accommodates the lights you plan to use and the parchment paper roll. (The paper's sole purpose is to keep the non-food-safe lights from making contact with the cookie.)

e. Turn on the mini LEDs, and then insert them inside the parchment paper roll.

f. Place the hut on the cookie again to reveal the fine lace designs.

And now for some close-ups . . .

Below you can see how the scene looks from the back. I ended up stippling the back of the 3-D tree transfer for the same reason I stippled the cookie. However, I thought of stippling after the tree was assembled, and so I only stippled the full-tree transfer. Ideally, all of the tree transfers should be stippled when they are dry and still attached to the silicone mat (right before Step 2m).

And here's a picture with the LED lights turned on. I used cool-temperature LEDs (above 3600 °K). I suggest using warm-temperature LEDs (below 3300 °K) if you want a cozier, less "icy" glow.

And last but not least, a video recap of this project tutorial. Enjoy!

Ciao, Manu

P.S. Don't forget that you can get 10% off all SugarVeil® mats and other products at any time if you SHOP HERE using code JULIA! Thank you, @Julia M. Usher, for sharing these special savings with us! [EDITOR'S NOTE: My pleasure! And, in full disclosure-mode, that "SHOP HERE" link is my affiliate link. All affiliate earnings help pay for the upkeep of this site. ~JMU]

Manuela Pezzopane, affectionately called Manu by her friends and family, is the author of the blog feature Made by Manu, where each month she shares the method behind a magical cookie of her own making. In March 2022, Manu also assumed the role of host of our rebranded and reformatted Cookie Connection Challenges: Watch-Learn-Create Series, which debuted in a virtual video format in July 2022. A fan of everything handmade, Manu professes to have tried every possible hobby. However, it wasn’t until the end of 2014, when an American friend invited her to a Christmas cookie exchange, that she first discovered decorated cookies. In 2015, after watching Julia M. Usher's videos and signing up on Cookie Connection, Manu finally attempted her own designs. Since then, cookie decorating has become Manu’s passion, and her mesmerizing video shorts have earned her a large and loyal following throughout the global cookie community. Manu harks from Rome, Italy, where she currently resides. You can email Manu at manubiscottidecorati@gmail.com, follow her on Facebook and Instagram, or explore her past challenges and large library of Made by Manu tutorials here on Cookie Connection.

Photo credit: Manuela Pezzopane

Note: Made by Manu is a Cookie Connection blog feature written by Manuela Pezzopane, where each month she shares the method behind a magical cookie of her own making. This article expresses the views of the author, and not necessarily those of this site, its owners, its administrators, or its employees. To read all of Manuela's past Made by Manu tutorials, click here. And to see all of Cookie Connection's tutorials, click here.